Pasta with anchovies - the subtle way

The other way, featured on this page, is what I call the subtle way. Here, anchovy is used to subtly enhance the flavour of a simple sauce, in this case, a simple tomato sauce.

Either way, you don't really get to taste the anchovies. in spite of anchovies having a very strong flavour. This is because very little anchovy is used - only about 50 grams, or 2 oz, in this recipe for four to six people. And this is already relatively plentiful. Other pasta recipes might call for just two or three pieces of anchovies in an entire dish.

The main role of anchovies here is not so much to flavour the dish, but more to enhance the flavour. Iff you eat this in a hurry and without paying attention, you might not notice the presence of anchovies somewhere in the background.

In this case, you might ask: Why eat pasta with anchovies?

Well, this is not for eating in a hurry. It is for you to slowly savour and enjoy. Then you will realise that, hey, there is something more to the tomato sauce. There is a subtle, salty flavour that reminds of the sea...

Pasta with anchovies, tomatoes and pepperoncino

Ingredients (serves 4 to 6):

• 1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
• 3 cloves garlic
• 1 medium onion
• 1 oz / 30 grams anchovies in oil, drained
• 1 tbsp pepperoncino or dried chilli flakes
• 1 can (approx 240 grams) stewed tomatoes
• small pinch of sea salt
  
  
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley or coriander
  
  
• 300 grams pasta, cooked according to instructions. Save some of the cooking liquid.

Method:

1. Smash the garlic with the blade of a knife and cut finely. Cut onion finely.
2. Heat the olive oil in a heavy pan. Add the garlic and fry until fragrant and the garlic begins to brown, about 3 minutes.
3. Add anchovies and break them up with a spatula or frying ladle.
4. Add onion, pepperoncino and a pinch of sea salt. Do not add too much salt as the anchovies are salty. Continue to fry over medium heat for about five minutes.
5. Add canned tomatoes. When it comes to a boil, reduce heat and simmer for 30 minutes or longer.
6. Cook the pasta. When ready, drain and save some of the pasta liquid. Mix into the tomato sauce, together with chopped Italian parsley or coriander leaves. If sauce is too dry, add a bit of the pasta cooking liquid.

Suggestions:

If, like me, you don't want this pasta with anchovies to be entirely subtle, serve it with, well, more anchovies. But I won't recommend more than two or three per person as anchovies are quite salty.


Also, go easy on the pepperoncino or dried chilli peppers. Although I am able to handle fairly hot and spicy food, I would not go overboard with the chilli so that it would not overpower the tomato and achovy.


Normally, pasta sauces do not require such long cooking - more than 30 minutes in this case, including the time taken to fry the garlic, onions, etc. The long slow simmering for this pasta with anchovies sauce is to allow the tomato, anchovies and other ingredients to meld and also to concentrate the flavours somewhat.


Personally, I enjoy a dry pasta. But if you find the sauce too dry, add a bit of the pasta cooking liquid. Do this slowly, maybe one tablespoonful at a time, because once the sauce is too wet, it is difficult to dry it back.